Garment



A. HABRESS GARMENT Filed Jan. 16, 1940 a gINVENTfDRr 5% Y ATTORNEYS Patented Dec. 30, 1941 UNITED, STATES PATENT OFFICE GARMENT August Habress, Long Island City, N; Y.

Application January 16, 1940, Serial No. 314,025

1 Claim. (Cl. 2-115) This invention relates to an improvement in shirts and has for one of its objects the provision of a shirt in which the usual yoke has been eliminated. This efiects a considerable saving in material and reduces the cost of manufacture by reason of this fact and for the further reason that a saving is effected in the manufacturing operations necessary in the production of the shirt. This will be appreciated from the detailed description which follows, but it will be understood by those skilled in this art that with the yoke it is not possible to use a felling machine, and accordingly two operations are necessary for each seam; first the yoke is stitched tothe back, then the yoke is stitched down on top of the back.

In addition to eliminating the yoke the material composing the shirt is so cut that the materials of the front and back are joined along a curved line which produces a shirt shoulder which conforms to the shoulder of the wearer. The join is also on the bias so that the shoulder is self-setting or self-fitting.

In the accompanying drawing:

Fig. 1 is a plan view of the pieces of material making up the shirt before the same have been sewn together;

Fig. 2 is a front elevational view of the finished shirt;

Fig. 3 is a view on the line 3--3 of Fig. 2; and

Fig. 4 is a section on the line 44 of Fig. 3.

For clarity of illustration I have omitted any showing of the neckband and sleeves.

Referring to the drawing in detail: 2 designates a blank which is to constitute the shirt back. 4 and 6 designate the left side and right side pieces or blanks of the shirt, viewing the shirt from the front.

The blank 2 is provided centrally of its upper edge with an arc-shaped recess 8 which constitutes part of the neck opening ID in the finished shirt. In the sides of the blank 2 at a distance from the recess 8 I provide inwardly curved recesses l2 which form part of the armholes in the finished garment. It will be appreciated that the distance between the neck opening recess 8 and the armhole recess l2 depends upon the width of the shoulder desiredin the finished garment.

, The sides of the blank 2 below the recesses l2 are cut away along a curve as seen at l4 and I6.

Between the recesses 8 and I2 the upper opposed edges of the blank 2 are cut away along an inwardly curved line l8, the blank being so cut that this curved line is inclined inwardly and upwardly.

The inner edges of the blanks 4 and 6 are provided in their upper edges with an arc-shaped recess 20, which, when these two blanks are sewn to the blank 2, cooperate with the recess 8 in the blank 2 to form the neck opening.

The inner edges of the blanks 4 and 6 are provided with arc-shaped recesses 22 which cooperate with the recesses l2 in the blank 2 to form the armholes. Below the recesses 22 the edgesof the blanks 4 and 6 are cut away along I out along an inwardly curved line 26, which slopes from the neck opening recesses 20 upwardly to the top of the armhole recess 22.

When the blanks are sewn together, as illustrated in Figs. 2 and 3, the edges 26 of the blanks 4 and 6 are joined to the edges l8 of the blank 2 to provide the shoulder seams 28.

It will be seen from Fig. 3 particularly that by reason of the curve given the upper edges of the three blanks at 26 and It, as above pointed out, when the blanks are assembled the shoulder seam curves slightly away from the front of the shirt. It will be seen, also, from this same figure of the drawing that the slope of the edge portions 26 and I8 is such that with the blanks assembled the shoulder seams recede from the shirt front along the line extending from the neck opening ID to the armholes. The result is a construction which fits the shoulders of the wearer, the curve given the shoulder seam together with the slope of the edges 26 and I8 providing a bias seam of maximum length which makes for a longer line of attachment of the blanks to each other and more yield in the garment as a whole, all of which promotes moulding of the garment to conform to the shoulders of the wearer.

It will be appreciated from all of the foregoing that my garment eliminates the necessity of a yoke of any kind, yet at the same time a better fitting shirt is provided by reason of the novel way in which the blanks composing the garment are shaped and joined together.

It will be appreciated also that all of the stitching can be done with a felling machine, thereby reducing the time and labor involved in the making of the garment of my invention.

I have deemed it unnecessary to show any neck: band or sleeves in my improved garment, inasmuch as these may be of usual construction.

It is to be understood that changes may be made in. the details of construction above described without departing from the spirit and scope of my invention.

What I claim is:

In combination, a shirt back blank provided at the center of its upper edge with a curved recess, a curved recess in each side edge of the blank,

the material of the blank between the first mentioned recess and the other recesses being out along a line which iscurved inwardly of the blank and slopes upwardly toward the first mentioned recess, shirt front blanks to be attached to the first mentioned blank, each of said front blanks being provided in its upper edge with a curved recess, cooperating with the said curved recess 2,268,118 ll f neck opening, each of said front blanks being provided in its side edges with curved recesses cooperating with the recesses in the side edges of the first mentioned blank to form armholes, the material between the curved recess in the upper edge of each of the shirt front blanks and the recesses in the side edges being out along a line curved inwardly of the blank and sloping upwardly from the recess in the upper edge of each of said blanks to the recesses in the side edges, whereby when the front blanks are united to the back blank shoulder seams will be provided which extend from the neck opening to a, point I adjacent the top of the armholes and curve away 15 from the shirt front. in the upper edge of the back blankto formna 1 i AUGUST HABRESS. 

